The Sphinx is a monolithic icon of the Madison Mountains, with its steep walls and slanting shape, it captures the attention of all who put eyes upon it. It is the 10,876’ Montana equivalent of its Egyptian counterpart.  

The North Face of The Sphinx is typically one of the first faces to grow climbable ice around the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem as early as mid-October, depending on the snowfall and temperatures. Even as the surrounding areas are still bathed in sunshine and snow-free, this provides a slice of winter that entices the climbers who can’t wait another moment to swing their tools.

Known for its exposed traverse, the season for climbing the Sphinx is relatively short. Once enough snow falls it forms touchy wind slabs that can easily knock you off your feet and take you for the ride of your life, so it’s best to get your timing right. Bailey Lasko, Owen DesRoches, and I departed from the Bear Creek Trailhead around 6am in shorts, t-shirts, and trail runners, still unbelieving that we might be climbing ice today. Walking on a trail known for its bear attacks helped keep the pace brisk, especially as mountain goats are knocking down rocks that sound suspiciously like a bear charging through the brush.

Arriving at the snowy traverse around 9:30 we got the first glimpse at the route we would be ascending, “Styrofoam Boots”. A rarely forming 5-pitch sliver of ice graded at WI4+ M3 R, I tried not to think about the fact I haven’t swung ice tools since last March. We soloed the first pitch and were pleasantly surprised to find that the ice was thicker than expected. I took the first lead and climbed some thin, unprotectable ice before creating a belay in a nice cave below the crux pitch. At this point I was glad to have opted to take the second pitch. Bailey rocketed up the crux pitch before encountering the non-existent top out runnel, which in typical Lasko style, he didn’t even give it a second thought before floating his way through the rock cobbles. Owen took the supposed final lead, connecting the 4th and 5th pitches, but as he climbed to the end of the rope he found a final pitch of very delicate ice that looked improbable to climb. However, as we were looking for an alternative way to complete the route, Bailey had other plans. He took the reins and gave us a masterclass on delicate climbing, leaving Owen and I wishing we had brought our notebooks. At the top of the route we finished the last 1000’ of snow wallowing to reach the true summit of the Sphinx.

Finally, out of the shade, the drastic change in temperature thawed out our frozen appendages and once again it felt like early Fall. After a few photos and high-fives, we descended the West Gully and made our way back to the car dreaming of the beers and burgers that were in our near future.

-Jack Neupert Sales & Marketing at BERINGIA

Photos: Seth Langbauer, Owen DesRoches