Guide Report on Climbing Granite 8/25

Report by Aiko Joy - Mountain Guide

If you've lived in Montana for more than one summer, you have likely heard at least one good story about an epic on the mountain. It ranks as the most technically challenging "high point" of the lower 48, standing at 12,807' in the Beartooths of Montana. To the inexperienced mountaineer and the seasoned alpinist alike, it hosts a variety of intriguing routes throughout the year. 


Right now is the best time to tackle Granite. Afternoon thunderstorms may be rolling in like clockwork, but travel conditions are the best, water is abundant, and daylight is long. At Beartooth Mountain Guides, we run nearly 20 trips up Granite each season. Although not every trip is successful, we have a good pulse on conditions for the Northern approaches and East Ridge. Here are a few key notes for current conditions (8/25):


Trail Conditions: Trails are dry and good from either West or East Rosebud. Crossing the plateau is sparsely marked and disorienting, be prepared for route finding challenges. Note that a significant bridge is out on Huckleberry Creek if approaching via Avalanche Lake. Similarly, East Rosebud Road is closed for a few days at the end of August as well.


Snow Conditions: The East Ridge is now snow free. Parties can cross the snow bridge without snow equipment. Similarly, the SW Ramp is reportedly nearly snow free, although some equipment might be warranted depending on ability.


Bugs: Bug season is already in the rear view mirror, but camping below treeline or near standing water will still warrant some bug spray.


Bears: Bears are out! Please have the correct food storage, even when on the Froze to Death Plateau. You'd be surprised by how high bears like to travel in the talus. Similarly, protect your food from hungry marmots and ground squirrels.


Water Availability: Water is still abundant on the Froze to Death Plateau, but will likely start to dry up by the end of the month. A tube or straw can be nice for sucking water from hidden streams in the rocks. The upper mountain no longer has water sources.


Crowds: Perhaps the greatest concern this time of the year: people! Please be respectful of others and practice Leave No Trace principles while up in a fragile alpine environment (and below!). Be especially considerate on route, as rockfall has been the source of various fatal accidents over the years. 


Waste: Pack it in, pack it out. This is the new standard- pack out your human waste! Not surprisingly, the high point of the state is the headwaters for much of the region. This is one of the best ways we can reduce our impact. Please grab some Wag Bags from a nearby gear store before leaving on your trip.

Interested in summiting Granite Peak? Check out Beartooth Mountain Guides.

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